Collectors are a difficult bunch to please under almost any conditions, and I include
myself in that assessment. Diehard brand addicts do want to see new variants of their favorites, but often won't
accept something visually too far from the aesthetics of the original visual concept.
 Patek's new Nautilus, presented at BASELWORLD 2005,
is a case in point. With the thirtieth anniversary of the Nautilus in sight for 2006, how does one take
a famous standard model that has not really been changed drastically in thirty-odd years and make something
new that will please everyone?
Big, Small, Large Again
The
original Nautilus 3700/1A released in 1976 was considered at the time the most expensive steel
watch around. Like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, it is a design from the hand of the famed createur
Gérald Genta.
The
first version was released in a 42 mm x 38 mm vertical dimension (who said larger
watches are a phase of the last few years?) and it was the first steel-cased, pure sports watch
produced by Patek Philippe. Its 120 meter water resistance is proof of how serious Patek Philippe took
the structural design of this piece as a sports watch, since it must be remembered that the majority of
sports watches at the time, such as the Rolex Oyster, only went as far as 50 meters water resistance.
The
steel case, the design and sporty features were hard for the Patek Philippe enthusiast of the
time to understand and accept; certainly the Nautilus didn't fit into any of the other stately collections
either. (In any case don't forget that steel was not the metal of choice for a Patek
Philippe purchaser in those days of yore).
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The
ultra-flat movement (3.05 mm including jump date) did not
have the central sweep seconds function that has become de rigueur for sports watches today.
Carrying the number 28 - 255 and manufactured by Jaeger-Le Coultre, it was also used
in other watches by such brands as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin.
These
early Nautilus versions are today among the most collectible, fetching prices of $18,000 upwards in the
second-hand marketplace and at auctions.
Around
1982, the company presented the smaller 34 mm model (3800/1), still available today
with a different movement, as well as a ladies' version. Patek Philippe dropped the original, larger
version in 1990.
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