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Caliber
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A term, similar to type or model, that refers to different watch movements. Pictured
here is Heuer's
Caliber 11,
the legendary automatic chronograph caliber from 1969. This movement was a coproduction
jointly researched and developed for four years by
Heuer-Leonidas,
Breitling, and
Hamilton-Büren.
Each company gave the movement a different name after serial production began.
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Chronograph
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From the Greek chronos (time) and graphein (to write). Originally a chronograph
literally wrote, inscribing the time elapsed on a piece of paper with the help of
a pencil attached to a type of hand.
Today this term is used for watches that show not only the time of day, but also
certain time intervals via independent hands that may be started or stopped at will.
So-called stopwatches differ from chronographs because they do not show the time
of day. This exploded illustration shows the complexity of a Breitling chronograph.
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Chronometer
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Literally, «measurer of time». As the term is used today, a chronometer denotes
an especially accurate watch (one with a deviation of no more than
5 seconds
a day for mechanical movements). Chronometers are usually supplied with an official
certificate from an independent testing office such as the C.O.S.C. The largest
producer of chronometers in 2004 was Rolex with 628,556 officially certified movements.
Chopard came in fifth with more than 11,000 certified L.U.C. mechanisms like the
4.96 in the Pro One model shown here.
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Column wheel
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The component used to control chronograph functions within a true chronograph movement.
The presence of a column wheel indicates that the chronograph is fully integrated
into the movement. In the modern era, modules are generally used that are attached
to a base caliber movement. This particular column wheel is made of blued steel.
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C.O.S.C.
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The Contrôle Officiel Suisse de Chronomètrage, the official Swiss testing
office for chronometers. The C.O.S.C. is the world's largest issuer of
so-called
chronometer certificates, which are only otherwise given out individually by certain
observatories (such as the one in Neuchâtel, Switzerland). For a fee, the C.O.S.C.
tests the rate of movements that have been adjusted by watchmakers. These are usually
mechanical movements, but the office also tests some high precision quartz movements.
Those that meet the specifications for being a chronometer are awarded an official
certificate as shown here.
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Côtes de Genève
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Also called vagues de Genève and Geneva stripes. This is a traditional Swiss
surface decoration comprising an even pattern of parallel stripes, applied to flat
movement components with a quickly rotating plastic or wooden peg. Glashütte
watchmakers have devised their own version of
Côtes de Genève
that is applied at a slightly different angle called Glashütte ribbing.
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Crown
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The crown is used to wind and set a watch. A few simple turns of the crown will
get an automatic movement started, while a manually wound watch is completely wound
by the crown. The crown is also used for the setting of various functions, almost
always including at least the hours, minutes, seconds, and date.
A screwed-down
crown like the one on the TAG Heuer Aquagraph pictured here can be tightened to
prevent water entering the case or any mishaps while performing extreme sports such
as diving.
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Equation of time
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The mean time that we use to keep track of the passing of the day (24 hours
evenly divided into minutes and seconds) is not equal to true solar time. The equation
of time is a complication devised to show the difference between the mean time shown
on one's wristwatch and the time the sun dictates. The Équation Marchante by
Blancpain very legibly shows this difference via the golden
sun-tipped
hand that also rotates around the dial in a manner known to watch connoisseurs as
marchant. Other wristwatch models such as the Eos Boreas by Martin Braun display
the difference on an extra scale on the dial.
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Escapement
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The combination of the balance, balance spring, pallets, and escape wheel, a subgroup
which divides the impulses coming from the spring barrel into small, accurately
portioned doses. It guarantees that the gear train runs smoothly and efficiently.
The pictured escapement is one newly invented by Parmigiani Fleurier containing
pallet stones of varying color, though they are generally red synthetic rubies.
Here one of them is a colorless sapphire or corundum, the same geological material
that ruby is made of.
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Flyback chronograph
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A chronograph with a special dial train switch that makes the immediate reuse of
the chronograph movement possible after resetting the hands. It was developed for
special timekeeping duties such as those found in aviation, which require the measurement
of time intervals in quick succession. A flyback may also be called a retour en
vol. An elegant example of this type of chronograph is Corum's Classical Flyback
Large Date shown here.
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