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| Caliber |
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A
term, similar to type or model, that refers to different watch
movements. Pictured here is Heuer's Caliber 11, the
legendary automatic chronograph caliber from 1969. This movement was
a coproduction jointly researched and developed for four years by
Heuer-Leonidas, Breitling, and
Hamilton-Büren. Each company gave the movement a
different name after serial production began. |
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| Chronograph |
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From
the Greek chronos (time) and graphein (to write). Originally a
chronograph literally wrote, inscribing the time elapsed on a piece
of paper with the help of a pencil attached to a type of
hand.
Today this term is used for watches that show not only the
time of day, but also certain time intervals via independent hands
that may be started or stopped at will.
So-called stopwatches
differ from chronographs because they do not show the time of day.
This exploded illustration shows the complexity of a Breitling
chronograph. |
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| Chronometer |
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Literally,
«measurer of time». As the term is used today, a chronometer denotes
an especially accurate watch (one with a deviation of no more than
5 seconds a day for mechanical movements). Chronometers
are usually supplied with an official certificate from an
independent testing office such as the C.O.S.C. The largest producer
of chronometers in 2004 was Rolex with 628,556 officially certified
movements. Chopard came in fifth with more than 11,000 certified
L.U.C. mechanisms like the 4.96 in the Pro One model shown here.
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| Column wheel |
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The
component used to control chronograph functions within a true
chronograph movement. The presence of a column wheel indicates that
the chronograph is fully integrated into the movement. In the modern
era, modules are generally used that are attached to a base caliber
movement. This particular column wheel is made of blued steel.
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| C.O.S.C. |
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The
Contrôle Officiel Suisse de Chronomètrage, the official Swiss
testing office for chronometers. The C.O.S.C. is the world's largest
issuer of so-called chronometer certificates, which are
only otherwise given out individually by certain observatories (such
as the one in Neuchâtel, Switzerland). For a fee, the C.O.S.C. tests
the rate of movements that have been adjusted by watchmakers. These
are usually mechanical movements, but the office also tests some
high precision quartz movements. Those that meet the specifications
for being a chronometer are awarded an official certificate as shown
here. |
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| Côtes de Genève |
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Also
called vagues de Genève and Geneva stripes. This is a traditional
Swiss surface decoration comprising an even pattern of parallel
stripes, applied to flat movement components with a quickly rotating
plastic or wooden peg. Glashütte watchmakers have devised their own
version of Côtes de Genève that is applied at a
slightly different angle called Glashütte ribbing. |
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| Crown |
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The
crown is used to wind and set a watch. A few simple turns of the
crown will get an automatic movement started, while a manually wound
watch is completely wound by the crown. The crown is also used for
the setting of various functions, almost always including at least
the hours, minutes, seconds, and date. A screwed-down
crown like the one on the TAG Heuer Aquagraph pictured here can be
tightened to prevent water entering the case or any mishaps while
performing extreme sports such as diving. |
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| Equation of time |
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The
mean time that we use to keep track of the passing of the day
(24 hours evenly divided into minutes and seconds) is not equal
to true solar time. The equation of time is a complication devised
to show the difference between the mean time shown on one's
wristwatch and the time the sun dictates. The Équation Marchante by
Blancpain very legibly shows this difference via the golden
sun-tipped hand that also rotates around the dial in a
manner known to watch connoisseurs as marchant. Other wristwatch
models such as the Eos Boreas by Martin Braun display the difference
on an extra scale on the dial. |
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| Escapement |
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The
combination of the balance, balance spring, pallets, and escape
wheel, a subgroup which divides the impulses coming from the spring
barrel into small, accurately portioned doses. It guarantees that
the gear train runs smoothly and efficiently. The pictured
escapement is one newly invented by Parmigiani Fleurier containing
pallet stones of varying color, though they are generally red
synthetic rubies. Here one of them is a colorless sapphire or
corundum, the same geological material that ruby is made of. |
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| Flyback chronograph |
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A
chronograph with a special dial train switch that makes the
immediate reuse of the chronograph movement possible after resetting
the hands. It was developed for special timekeeping duties such as
those found in aviation, which require the measurement of time
intervals in quick succession. A flyback may also be called a retour
en vol. An elegant example of this type of chronograph is Corum's
Classical Flyback Large Date shown here. |
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